# Beirut: Where old meets modern and beautiful meets ugly



## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Situated right in the middle of the Levantine coast, Beirut is bathed by the Mediterranean sea on two sides and surrounded by hills covered with pinewoods and shrubland, sadly increasingly gnawed on by suburban sprawl. Good viewpoints of the city can be found in the suburbs of Aaraya and Roumieh:




























Beirut was at a time one of the region's main tourist destinations and its airport served as a crossroads between Europe and the Middle East. However tourism has never returned to its pre civil war levels despite government campaigns and hype by the locals, due to Lebanon's continuing political instability, inadequate infrastructure and less liberal than before social climate, as well as the emergence of nearby destinations like Tel Aviv, Cyprus and Dubai. A new airport terminal was opened in 1998 nonetheless, which was at that time the most modern of the Levant, but suffers today of some logistic and cleanliness issues and a lack of eateries and shopping options (other than the duty free shops):


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)




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## christos-greece (Feb 19, 2008)

Great, very nice thread about Beirut, cat :applause:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Thank you! But you haven't seen anything yet, there are A LOT more photos to come


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## Brazilian001 (Apr 22, 2012)

It's nice to see that you have decided to dedicate your own thread to Beirut, cat! I'll be following it for sure!


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## El_Greco (Apr 1, 2005)

Cool shots.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Most of my visits to Beirut happened while accompanying my sister on her shopping trips; I would then go my own way to explore on foot the area in the vicinity of the mall and take as many photos as possible. Some of these trips enabled me to get to know areas like the restored Central District or Ashrafieh, which had plenty to see, while other trips would take us to bland and uninteresting suburbs to the east or the north of the city, but were still an opportunity to observe the city's growing skyline from the car. Here is how the skyline of Ashrafieh (the predominantly Christian area within the municipality of Beirut) appeared in 2015 from the highway following the Beirut River:



















(for those interested, the names of the highest towers from left to right are: Sky Gate, Credit Libanais, Trillium, Sioufi Heights, St George Residences and Ashrafieh 4748)

And here is for comparison what the same area's skyline looked like back in 2003, albeit from a different angle:










(the highest towers visible in this photo are now concealed by the newly built ones)

We go past the luxurious residential condominiums Ashrafieh 4748:










and the Holcom headquarters, an interesting piece of contemporary architecture:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Crossing then the Beirut River that separates the City of Beirut from its eastern suburbs:










we pass the city's main interchange in Nahr el Mawt (literally the River of Death):










and the headquarters of luxury department store Aishti, the Aishti Foundation, designed by British architect David Adjaye:










before arriving to the ABC department store in the suburb of Dbayeh, one of the Middle East's leading retailers. It was recently refurbished and clad in a recognizable black and white shell, with the addition of a belt of greenery:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Nearby is another establishment patronized by my sister, Le Mall Dbayeh with its interesting facade:



















and whose rooftop parking offers a view towards Beirut:










and the under construction Waterfront City development:


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## General Electric (Sep 12, 2010)

Very nice, never seen random pics from Beirut, I like this


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## Eduarqui (Jul 31, 2006)

Thanks for showing recent photographs of Beirut, it is growing again as we can see, and hopefully will receive again tourists and tradings.

If I'm not wrong, the University Campus of Beirut has some sixties projetcs from brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, including an arch in concrete, are these projects yet on the Campus?


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Leaving Dbayeh and heading towards central Beirut, we pass next to the under construction Crystal Towers in Antelias:




























We cross the Beirut River again and take Charles Helou Avenue with the port to our right. The area is dotted by a few high-rises (like Harbor Tower to the right of the first picture) with some more under construction:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

We eventually reach the city's reconstructed Central District through Martyrs' Square, Lebanon's largest:










and take Weygand Street, one of the area's thoroughfares. The Central District is instantly recognizable by its yellow stone architecture and its skyline of historic minarets and bell towers:




























Some of the city's latest luxury residential projects can be seen under construction in the background, such as 3Beirut and Beirut Terraces:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Eduarqui said:


> If I'm not wrong, the University Campus of Beirut has some sixties projetcs from brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, including an arch in concrete, are these projects yet on the Campus?


I'm not aware of the university having any building designed by Oscar Niemeyer, but maybe you're referring to the International Fairgrounds of Tripoli instead? This fair has never opened however and lies today in a state of abandonment.


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## Eduarqui (Jul 31, 2006)

WasabiHoney said:


> I'm not aware of the university having any building designed by Oscar Niemeyer, but maybe you're referring to the International Fairgrounds of Tripoli instead? This fair has never opened however and lies today in a state of abandonment.


Thanks for explanation, guess this is the real project I was imagining, and maybe in next future it will be renewed, let's wait


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

A detailed exploration of the Central District on foot will be featured in the next pages. For the moment we leave the area through Port Street:



















then turn south and east to enter the posh district of Ashrafieh, built on a hill and displaying a mixed residential and commercial character:



















One of Ashrafieh's main arteries is Charles Malek Avenue:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

We encounter the devoid of charm Orthodox church of St Nicolas (with the luxury residential tower Les Domes de Sursock rising behind it):










and the elegant L'Ellipse building with its palm trees, one of my favorite in the whole city:










then turn southwards at the Fouad Boutros bridge, an utterly pointless concrete slab spanning the avenue (one of the many examples of the country's lack of urban planning):










and take Alfred Nakkash street:



















where the main entrance to the ABC Ashrafieh mall, one of Lebanon's poshest and best known, is located (not visible in the picture as it is concealed by trees).


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## christos-greece (Feb 19, 2008)

Indeed cat, those Beirut updates are really very nice :cheers:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

The rooftop of the ABC Mall offers good views of the nearby high-rises. This picture dates from 2011, before the construction of the soaring Skygate Tower:










I set off to explore the surrounding area, and after reaching Sassine Square, usually considered as the beating heart of Ashrafieh (pictured here is the road passing below it):










I turn left and come across the Tilal Bayrut ("The Hills of Beirut") tower:



















and the neighboring Atomium 5242:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

A short distance away is the Byblos Bank headquarters:










and Rizk Tower, the tallest building completed in the 1970s:










behind which one finds this residential building with unusual design baptized Achrafieh 893:










Entering the narrow streets nearby, I encounter a neighborhood of impressive old buildings unfortunately in a state of decay:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

One of them appears to be in a better state, however I realize with horror that a row of windows on the second floor have been fit with aluminum frames, ruining the building's appearance!


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Nearby is another old building which, although less elaborate than the previous ones, has been restored quite well:










I choose to head towards Charles Malek Avenue, and on the way down, I pass by this nice estate entrance:










and this beautiful mansion in need of a paint job, which a passerby informs me (without being too sure) is called Feghali building:










Across the street is the sleek residential Babikian building:










and these two mansions, the likes of which the area must have been full of a few decades ago:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

I get to the corner of Charles Malek Avenue and Alfred Nakkash Street:










where this building stands, known as Center Sole:










and enter once again the shady backstreets, walking towards Les Domes de Sursock tower:










A short distance away I encounter up close the elegant L'Ellipse:










and its equally elegant palm trees:










Another reason why it's among my favorite buildings is the cute artificial waterfall it features:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Right to the north is the high-end Sursock Street. Named after one of Beirut's most prominent families, it houses a number of beautiful historic mansions built in the 18th and 19th century:





































One of them, the Nicolas Sursock mansion, has been converted to a museum housing modern and contemporary art exhibitions:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

There used to be more than 30 mansions and villas lining Sursock Street, but sadly most of them have been torn down and replaced today with luxurious condominiums:




























On my way back to the ABC mall to end the day, I make a quick stop at the Lazarist Convent:










whose courtyard offers a welcome shelter from the city's density and noise:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Though most of my trips to Beirut would take me to Ashrafieh, the Central District or Dbayeh, I found myself elsewhere on a few occasions, like in Badaro, a neighborhood on the edge of the Municipality of Beirut. Although it seems to have recently evolved as a nightlife destination, there is not much to be seen there in daytime, apart from a church with somewhat unusual shape:










and the School of Fine Arts of the Lebanese University, housed in a somewhat interesting building in need of renovation:










Some large apartment blocks can be found around:










as well as this kitschy building housing a private university (of which there are countless ones in Lebanon):










Badaro was the scene of heavy fighting during the Civil War, and a few buildings still bear the scars of it even today:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

A couple of kilometers to the east is the Horsh Tabet neighborhood, part of Sin el Fil (literally "the Elephant's Tooth") suburb, and whose skyline is dominated by the Metropolitan Palace Hotel:










and the Habtoor Grand Hotel (one of the city's most prominent buildings due to its height and location on a hill), housing a shopping center (Le Mall Sin el Fil) beneath it:










The two are owned by the same Emirati group and are linked by a pedestrian bridge spanning a busy intersection:










To the other side of Badaro we find the city's hippodrome, with Qronfol Tower rising above it:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

On another visit to Ashrafieh, I decide to explore the district's northern side, in the port's vicinity, comprising the neighborhoods of Mar Mikhael, Rmeil and Gemmayze. I pass next to the St George Orthodox hospital, in whose courtyard stands the homonymous church:










as well as a chapel with a design a little reminiscent of Oscar Niemeyer's works:










Downhill is the headquarters of EDL, the country's inefficient and corrupt power company:



















The area is characterized by steep slopes and a number of picturesque stairs:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

I'm pleasantly surprised to find a number of examples of traditional Lebanese architecture lining the main street, with their characteristic arches, wooden shutters and stone walls, even though not all of them are in a good state of conservation:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Some buildings also exhibit elements of Western architecture:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

I'm later angered to learn that many of these gems are threatened with demolition to make way for an elevated road that in practice won't lead anywhere. Lebanese urban planning at its best! While some of them have probably escaped this fate after being bought by privates and restored (the first one has been turned into a residence and the second into a restaurant):



















others are simply falling apart, and the risk of them being demolished is imminent:



















But what to say about this one, to which several concrete stories have been added to turn it into a hotel? Is it necessarily a better fate than decay?


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## christos-greece (Feb 19, 2008)

Once again wonderful, very nice Beirut photos


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## El_Greco (Apr 1, 2005)

Nice facades!


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

On another day, we visit the shopping district of Beirut Souks, which is an attraction of its own. Before the Civil War, the historic Souks of Beirut housed fashionable boutiques, jewelry stores, haute-couture houses, and Lebanon’s biggest fruit, vegetable and flower market. When the plans were laid for the restoration and reconstruction of the Central District in the early 90s, the Souks were not among the preserved landmarks as their medieval buildings had sustained irreparable damage. Instead, an international design competition was launched to build a modern version of them, which was won by architects José Rafael Moneo Vallés and Kevin Dash, and the Beirut Souks as we know them today opened in 2009 after a decade of delay:










They consist of 200 shops located along vaulted alleys and arcades, and while bearing little resemblance architecturally to their pre-war counterparts, they have retained the original Hellenistic street grid layout as well as their historical names, like Souk at Tawileh:










Souk al Arwam:










and Souk al Jamil:



















However the colorful and picturesque character of the old Souks has been completely lost, as today's shops exclusively feature large chains and luxury brands due to the soaring rent prices.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

On the other hand, the archeological findings recovered in the Souks have been restored, like the Mameluke madrasah of Ibn Iraq Ad Dimashqi:










A few contemporary public art and design works have been commissioned for the site. The most striking is probably "The Visitor", a 16 meter high chaotic bright orange structure inspired by tree houses and shanty towns:










"Gloriette", located in the Jewellers' Souk, is a redefinition of a bench with a precise stainless steel construction that invites shoppers to sit down and rest:










However I couldn't find out the name or interpretation of this group of monolithic figures at the Souks' southern entrance, which makes me think it was possibly a temporary display:










The eastern entrance is flanked by this modern fountain and waterfall:


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## Skopje/Скопје (Jan 8, 2013)

I really like the traditional Lebanese architecture, real shame that most of the buildings are in bad condition. The city would look much better if those buildings will be renewed. Anyway, nice presentation of Beirut. Thanks for the photos and the information, I really enjoy in visiting this thread.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

^^ There will be later a detailed presentation of an area where the old buildings have been completely renovated. But like you said, it's a shame that all other areas of the city haven't had the same luck.


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## Brazilian001 (Apr 22, 2012)

WasabiHoney said:


> There will be later a detailed presentation of an area where the old buildings have been completely renovated.


Which one, the BCD? I guess a small part of it is visible in some of the previous photos? By the way, very nice photos and presentation! :bow:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

brazilian001 said:


> Which one, the BCD? I guess a small part of it is visible in some of the previous photos?


Yes the BCD, of which two streets have been quickly shown in some of the first photos like you said.



brazilian001 said:


> By the way, very nice photos and presentation! :bow:


Thank you  Stay tuned because there is still a lot more to come!


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Exiting the Souks from that side, we find ourselves on Fakhri Beik Street, where the restored (and largely pedestrianized) historic part of the Central District begins. The minaret of the Majidiyeh mosque can be seen in the background:










At the spot where Fakhri Beik and Allenby Streets meet stands this recognizable building with the rounded corner:



















Allenby Street extends from the port area to Nejmeh Square with its landmark Abd clock tower (slightly visible in the back):


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

It houses a number of foreign embassies and luxury stores:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Just outside the Souks on Weygand Street, which runs perpendicularly to Allenby, stands this modern edifice with the interesting glass facade:










as well as the restored Melrose Building:










Within walking distance to the east is the Beirut City Hall:










and this beautiful reflecting pool, with its bottom of pebbles glimmering under the water that slowly cascades over the edges:



















But I decide to leave the exploration of this area to a later time and head west instead, toward the booming Mineh el Hosn (literally "Fort Harbor") and the city's famed seafront.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

I reach this exquisite building a short distance away whose name I haven't been able to find. I read somewhere that it used to stand in another nearby spot, from where it was transported and rebuilt stone by stone:










From there I take the fully redeveloped Ahmad Daouq Street towards the seafront:










where I'm greeted by the luxurious 24 Avenue du Parc condominiums:










Behind them stand Marina Tower and the 4 Seasons Hotel, probably the city's most iconic skyscrapers thanks to their instantly recognizable top and central location:



















The 4 Seasons Hotel features a rooftop lounge, The Roof, which is among Beirut's most expensive spots and offers incomparable views over the city and the Mediterranean:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Immediately to the west is the area formerly known as the Hotel District which used to house some of the city's best known hotels before the war. Some of them still operate today, like the Intercontinental Phoenicia Hotel (the wing to the left is the hotel's original building and the ones to the right are the recent extensions, while the ghost shell of the former Holiday Inn Hotel stands in the back as a reminder of the war):



















A development plan aiming at restoring the area as a tourist hotspot saw the construction of a marina, circled by a quayside designed as a series of overlapping platforms reminiscent of sea waves. Lined with numerous expensive restaurants and cafes with a backdrop of palm trees and glitzy high-rises, this strip was christened Zaytuneh Bay or Zaytuna Bay (pretentiously spelled "Zaitunay Bay" by the locals) and has become one of the city's prime destinations, so much that a local joke goes "I've never been to Dubai but I've been to Zaytuneh Bay":










Some of the high-rises lining the strip include the contiguous Bay Tower and Beirut Tower (couldn't they come up with a more original name for this one?), seen here in their final stages of construction:










and Platinum Tower, which stood as Lebanon's tallest finished building until the completion of Sky Gate in 2014 (to its right is the Monroe Hotel):


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## Eduarqui (Jul 31, 2006)

Thank you for sharing the photographs and the good information about modern construction in Beirut


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

A few hundred meters to the west starts the famed Corniche, a 2 km seaside promenade lined with palm trees and benches. A very popular destination for walkers, joggers and skaters, it is teeming with people that late afternoon despite the grey weather:




























I decide to return on a sunny day to take better photos, and head back to Beirut Souks to leave the city. Darkness has fallen and the tallest buildings have been partially lit. Here we see Bay Tower, Beirut Tower and the tip of Platinum Tower behind Starco Center, a functionalist office building:










Platinum Tower in particular has a recognizable lighting scheme:



















However the lighting of Marina Tower and The 4 Seasons Hotel is rather unimpressive:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

I returned regularly to Ashrafieh, and witnessed the district's skyline grow with every passing month:










(the tallest visible towers are from left to right: Harbor Tower (under construction), les Domes de Sursock (under construction), Sursock Residences, Sursock 197, Al Aidi Tower, and Sursock Tower)










(from left to right: Sursock Tower, Fal Tower, Ashrafieh Tower and Saifi Hills)

even though dilapidated neighborhoods still stood at the feet of some of the high-rises, attesting to the country's social and economic disparities:










However no project was as ambitious and as visible as Sky Gate, whose construction started in 2013 and which at 44 floors towered higher above the city than any other:










dwarfing the already tall enough Tilal Beirut and Atomium 5242 that stood on either side of it:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Construction progressed at a good pace and the skyscraper soon took shape:



















becoming a new landmark of the city and its most prominent building instead of Habtoor Grand Hotel, which in the meantime had become property of Hilton (notice the name change on the facade):


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

I decide that time has come for a more thorough exploration of the Central District. The first landmark I encounter coming from Ashrafieh is a remnant of brutalist architecture referred to as The Soap because of its shape, which used to house a cinema before the war:



















It lies today abandoned amidst new development, pockmarked with bullet holes and covered in tags, but the fact it wasn't demolished during the district's reconstruction makes me think there is something in store for it in the future:










A short distance to the west stands the Bakri building, surrounded by parking lots and archaeological excavations. With its pastel colored walls, Rub el Hizb symbols below every window, and arched doors with the alternating grey and white pattern, it is a unique hybrid of oriental and Italian architecture:










To the north is the Saint George Cathedral of the Maronite Archidocese of Beirut (Saint George being also the patron saint of the city). Built in 1894, its neoclassical facade, plan and interior were inspired by the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome. It was heavily shelled during the civil war and was plundered and defaced. A number of works of art that has been looted have since been recovered, including a famous painting of Saint George by Eugene Delacroix. The cathedral was subsequently restored and re-inaugurated in 2000:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Right next to Saint George Cathedral is the monumental Mohammad al Amin Mosque, built between 2002 and 2007 (as if there were not already enough mosques in the area). Inspired by the Sultan Ahmed Mosque in Istanbul, its design is evocative of the Ottoman monumental architecture with touches and ornaments in the Mamluk Egyptian style. With its ochre stone exterior, giant blue domes and 72-meter-high minarets, it is today the Central District's most visible and recognizable landmark:



















The mosque stands on the west side of Martyrs' Square, Lebanon largest, where the country's kilometer zero is also located. Just southeast of the square is Saifi Village, an upscale residential neighborhood rebuilt in New Urbanist style according to plans by French urban planner François Spoerry and Lebanese architect Nabil Gholam, which also houses numerous art galleries, antique store and designer shops:










But despite its attractive pastel colored facades with elements of traditional Lebanese architecture and its cobbled streets, the neighborhood looks more like a Chinese replica or a Las Vegas hotel rather than an authentic Lebanese setting:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Martyrs' Square is close to 300m in length. Off its northern edge we find the Archaeological Tell, which integrates vestiges of defensive structures from several historic times: part of a Phoenician wall, Hellenistic remains, Roman fortifications, foundations of a Crusader castle and remains of an Ottoman citadel. A museum is expected to open in the future that will display findings from the Tell, but at the moment the site lies seemingly abandoned (part of the port is seen in the background):










From that spot, looking south beyond some large parking lots (that will be probably turned into construction sites in the near future), we see the Saifi neighborhood with more luxurious apartments being built, and the ever growing skyline of Ashrafieh:










The square's northwestern corner is occupied by this nice building housing Le Gray Hotel:










and by the headquarters of An Nahar newspaper, in front of which is the small Samir Qassir memorial garden (named in honor of a journalist and political activist assassinated in 2005) and its reflection pond:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Across Weygand Street is the historic Amir Assaf Mosque, which was built by Prince Mansour Assaf between 1572 and 1580 on the site of the Byzantine Church of the Holy Savior:










And behind it is the even older Great Al Omari Mosque with its two minarets, which used to be the central mosque of Beirut before being eclipsed by Mohammad Al Amin Mosque in 2007. Originally a Crusader church, it was converted to a mosque in 1291:










Inside, a shrine for John the Baptist can still be seen, while the mihrab bears ancient Greek engravings. Three hairs from prophet Mohamed were preserved in the mosque, a gift from Sultan Abdülmecid I; they were stolen during the civil war by militias who vandalized the building:










Heading south of the mosque we emerge on Nejmeh Square, named after Place de l'Etoile in Paris whose radial street pattern it emulates. Housing the Lebanese parliament building and a series of cafes and restaurants, it has become a recognizable icon of Beirut worldwide, thanks in particular to this 1930s clock tower, a gift from Lebanese-Brazilian émigré Michel Abd:










The square and the streets around it are notable for their architecture mixing oriental and western elements:


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## DarkLite (Dec 31, 2004)

Beautiful Beirut. I am much more interested in Lebanon than any other country in the Arab Middle East. What are some of the most well known museums in the city dedicated to?
In some shots the downtown core reminds me a lot of Latin America, especially with the ritzy shopping malls and flashy residential buildings. All in all Beirut looks likes the most authentic city in the Middle East. It is exciting to see people bask the cityscape in the streets instead of confining themselves to indoor quarters.


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## christos-greece (Feb 19, 2008)

Indeed wonderful, very nice updates from Beirut, cat :cheers:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

DarkLite said:


> What are some of the most well known museums in the city dedicated to?


The National Museum (archaeological, with findings dating from prehistoric times to the Mamluk period), the Archaeological Museum of the American University of Beirut, the Museum of Lebanese Prehistory, the Robert Mouawad Museum (a private collection of artifacts and books) and the Sursock Museum (a modern art gallery) are the ones I know.



DarkLite said:


> In some shots the downtown core reminds me a lot of Latin America, especially with the ritzy shopping malls and flashy residential buildings.


I always thought the residential high-rises in Lebanon and in various Latin American countries looked a lot like each other.



DarkLite said:


> All in all Beirut looks likes the most authentic city in the Middle East.


It has lost a lot of this authenticity with the constant construction of malls, luxurious residential projects and badly designed highways, but I believe it's still more authentic than Dubai or Doha anyway.



DarkLite said:


> It is exciting to see people bask the cityscape in the streets instead of confining themselves to indoor quarters.


Yes, one thing that notably differentiates Lebanon from the Gulf countries is the Mediterranean flair and the thriving street life, although from what I have seen people tend more and more to spend their free time in malls and cinemas rather than outdoors.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Leaving Nejmeh Square from the Parliament's side we find ourselves on a street lined with uniform modern buildings devoid of character, among which this one somewhat stands out with its columns and balconies:










Like a number of other streets in the area, it is disfigured by ugly concrete blocks whose purpose I never fully understood (I suppose they're meant to prevent cars from parking, although there are certainly better ways to achieve this goal):










Amidst the modern constructions we find the historical Amir Mounzer Mosque. Completed in 1620, it is notable for containing six Roman columns and an ancient fountain in its courtyard:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Turning south we find ourselves on a trail following the Roman Baths Gardens, a series of terraced gardens planted with olive, palm and pine trees, and dominated by the former Ottoman military hospital, housing today the Council of Reconstruction and Development:



















The gardens take their name from the uncovered ruins of ancient Roman baths lying beneath them. Originally discovered in 1968, the ruins underwent a thorough cleaning and further excavation in 1995-1997. They exhibit brick vaults, remains of ventilation networks and old water heating apparatuses:



















The campanile of the Saint Louis Capuchin Church can also be seen behind the gardens. Built in 1864 by the Capuchin missionaries and named in the honor of King Louis IX of France, the church was the first landmark to be renovated and reopened after the end of the war. However the top half of the campanile, rebuilt in white limestone, comes in ugly contrast with the pinkish sandstone composing the rest of the church:










A stairway leads up to the hilltop where the impressive Grand Serail stands, however photography towards the building is prohibited as it is today the seat of the corrupt government, so only the neighboring Hamidiyeh clock tower (another monument of the Ottoman era) can be seen behind the trees:










Built in 1853 as an army barracks, the Grand Serail comprises four wings disposed around a large courtyard with a limestone and marble fountain at its center; its exterior and interior facades are covered by a total of 588 arches. Severely damaged during the war, its reconstruction took 900 work days and was completed in 1998.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

But to feel the city's true spirit, one must imperatively head to what is still known today as West Beirut (a denomination coined during the civil war when the capital was split in half between warring factions), and particularly to Hamra Street and its surroundings. Hamra was known before the war as Beirut's Champs Elysées, being its trendiest street and frequented by tourists all year round. Although it has yet to revive fully its pre-war legacy and is no longer Beirut's nightlife center, it is still regarded by many (including me) as the beating heart of the city, hosting a large concentration of hotels, restaurants, cafes and retail shops.

One particular building in the area that caught my attention whenever I passed next to it is the Golden Tulip Serenada Hotel. Though full of Las Vegas kitsch, it has that je-ne-sais-quoi which prompted me to photograph it from every angle:




























I also had the opportunity once to stay at one of the area's numerous hotels. The view from the balcony over the surrounding rooftops reveals that chaotic and rundown density so characteristic of Mediterranean cities:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

A few blocks away from Hamra Street is Mirage Tower with its unique balcony design:










While to the other side midway towards the sea stands Gefinor Center. Built in International Style in 1960, it remains until today a landmark of the area:










A short distance away, right outside the campus of the prestigious American University of Beirut, I encounter this decaying building with the intricately carved slabs adorning its facade, and which I'm afraid is threatened with demolition like so many others:



















From there, I take a flight of stairs following the external walls of the campus and descend towards the Corniche promenade:


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## Rumors (Jul 1, 2007)

Beautiful thanks for the tour.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

The area is also notable for a number of restored stone edifices whose peculiar architecture is not found elsewhere in the city:


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## Brazilian001 (Apr 22, 2012)

Nice stone buildings, remind me of the traditional architecture along the Dalmatian coast!


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Nearby is Le Patio complex, composed of three residential towers overlooking a small inner garden:



















and next to it Our Lady of the Annunciation Orthodox church, where world-famous Lebanese singer Fayouz got married in 1955:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

From there, I take Lebanon Street towards the north:










passing the green and quiet Huvelin Street, home to the Jesuit Quarter and one of the schools of the Saint Joseph University:










Turning right, I encounter a building that would look very promising if adequately restored:










Sadly this piece of kitsch facing it is in much better state:










On the same street is this Art Deco inspired building reminiscent of those on Abdel Wahab:










and this traditional three-story house with its arched balcony doors:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

I turn south again and pass below the recently finished FAL Tower:










There are a couple more old buildings in that spot in need of some work, and surrounded by more high-rises under construction:




























Nearby however, I'm pleased to see the Feghali Mansion has received a thorough paint job and looks better than ever:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

I decide to go take a glance at Sursock Street to see if anything has changed in the neighborhood, and indeed several elegant residential buildings have sprouted since my last visit:



















including the prominent Sursock Residences:










even though none has surpassed Les Domes de Sursock in height:










I'm also pleased to see this mansion has been restored and repainted with a bold color choice:










Even the Sursock Museum looks in better shape than last time. Can we finally hope the city is regaining some interest in its surviving examples of historic architecture?


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## Runninlikehell (Sep 25, 2011)

Nice city you have there! It's wonderful to see Beirut as it is right now and not as it was years ago. Way to go Lebanon!


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## Sirkal (Sep 19, 2016)

Nice photos


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Why did the number of likes drop so much after the first couple of pages? Only brazilian001 is keeping me motivated to post more photos  Come on guys!


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

We head once again for the Central District through Charles Malek Avenue:





































Reaching Fouad Chehab Avenue that bypasses the Central District and continues towards Hamra, we turn right:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

New projects are still sprouting on Damascus Street, the main artery leading to Martyrs' Square:










Weygand Street however is still unchanged, having already taken its final shape in the late 90s - early 00s (with the exception of Beirut Souks, opened in 2009):


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

While my sister is window-shopping at the Souks, I go explore in more detail the northern part of the Central District, or Foch-Allenby neighborhood (named after its two main streets that run perpendicularly to Weygand), with its characteristic early 20th-century European-style architecture. It starts on Fakhri Beik Street right outside Beirut Souks:










and extends past Foch Street:










until Uruguay Street to the east, where a number of cafes and bars have opened in the recent years:


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## christos-greece (Feb 19, 2008)

^^ Once again really good, very nice updates, cat! :cheers:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Uruguay Street ends at Samir Qassir Garden, which is shaded by two large fig trees and won the Aga Khan Award or Architecture in 2007:










But the pebbles that previously covered the bottom of the reflecting pool seem to have been removed and I don't like this change (Amir Assaf Mosque can be seen across the street):










Next to the garden at the intersection of Weygand and Foch Streets stands the impressive City Hall of Beirut, built in 1934. It is notable for its mix of Levantine and Italian Gothic architecture:










similarly, to some extent, to this building located next to it:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Here are a couple more shots of the City Hall from the side:










and from the rear (unusually enough, there are shops located on he ground floor of the building):



















Running next to it is the particularly interesting Foch Street:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)




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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Foch leads up to the historic Abu Bakr as Siddiq Mosque:










and the Idriss building that stands out from the others for incorporating brick into its architecture:










Part of the Archaeological Tell remains can be seen behind them:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Foch Street is also intersected by a few cobblestone alleys, like Al Moutran Street:










and the shady and deserted Abdallah Beyhum Alley:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Thank you everyone who likes my photos, and especially you brazilian :hug: It takes more work than I expected to arrange the photos in order and find something to write without becoming too repetitive :dizzy:


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## Skopje/Скопје (Jan 8, 2013)

Very nice old architecture on the last few set of photos. Beirut has huge potential to become one of the most beautiful cities in the Middle East.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Skopje/Скопје;135570092 said:


> Very nice old architecture on the last few set of photos. Beirut has huge potential to become one of the most beautiful cities in the Middle East.


This is the city's best kept and most European looking neighborhood. It lay completely in ruin after the civil war (as it was located on the Green Line that separated warring factions in the east and west of Beirut) and was restored and reshaped into its present state in a matter of a few years, one of the largest and most intensive reconstruction projects ever attempted.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

On Abd el Malek Alley that runs perpendicular to Abdallah Beyhum, I encounter this door with the beautifully carved stone frame:










More interesting door frames can be found below on Saad Zaghloul Street:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

This one bears a variety of arabesque and wavy patterns:










that are further duplicated on the building's ground floor cornice:










while others are decorated with a pattern of leaves and roses:










or leaves and berries:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

I end my exploration on Allenby Street, which runs parallel to Foch and is lined with an ensemble of grandiose buildings:














































But despite the neighborhood's unique architectural beauty, it feels sterile, lacking the liveliness and vibrancy that are a defining feature of a city's historic core. All local shops have been replaced by luxury boutiques and expensive restaurants, while the apartments above them have been sold to wealthy expats and Gulf nationals. So no wonder the streets are empty: the place just doesn't belong to the locals anymore.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

On Allenby Street too is the Beirut Souks Cinemacity with its LED covered facade, a sharp contrast to the beautiful old buildings. It is displaying images of mosques and other religious symbols because of a Muslim holiday at the time:










Across the street from it is the entrance to Harbor Square, which is more like a sort of courtyard surrounded by new construction:










Right above Cinemacity one finds the Majidiyeh Mosque, also surrounded by new construction. It has two minarets, the most prominent and newest of which is in Ottoman style:










while the other one, visible from the northern exit of Beirut Souks, looks more authentically Levantine and charming:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

From there I decide to continue my stroll towards Mineh el Hosn, expecting some of the towers that were still under construction on my last passage to have been completed. From the first glance already, it becomes apparent that the construction boom in the neighborhood has anything but slowed down:










While most of it has an upscale residential character, there are also a few scattered office buildings, like the newly completed Berytus Parks:










A lot of construction is taking place on Ahmad Shawqi Street that leads to some of the city's tallest towers:



















My eye is caught by the utterly elegant Eden Gardens, clad in alternating black and white marble strips:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Facing it is the not any less elegant 24 Avenue du Parc:




























with its courtyard planted with palm trees that give it a Miami feel:


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## Benonie (Dec 21, 2005)

Some great architecture in Allenby Street! kay:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Park View is another nearby condominium that tried to emulate the design and style of 24 Avenue du Parc, but the result is less successful in my opinion:










It is located below the iconic Marina Tower and 4 Seasons Hotel:










Continuing westwards on Ahmad Shawqi Street:



















I arrive to the Church of All Saints, Lebanon's only Anglican church, also located below Marina Tower:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Across the street stand two recently completed high-rises reminiscent of those in central Miami: Bay Tower:



















(the change of quality between the two pictures is because my camera's battery went dead and I had to switch to my mobile phone for the rest)

and the adjacent Beirut Tower (with Platinum Tower visible behind it):










Their entrances are flanked by these elegant reflection pools:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

A stairway climbs between Beirut Tower and Platinum Tower passing next to an overgrown garden:



















There is a nice esplanade on top with some pools surrounded by palm trees:










I get down to the other side and find myself amidst the latest additions to the city's skyline, designed by world-renowned architecture firms: Beirut Terrace by Herzog & de Meuron, whose penthouse alone is expected to be sold at 13 million $:



















and 3Beirut by Norman Foster:










(the building visible behind them is Damac Tower)


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

I head back to Beirut Souks, passing again next to Platinum, Beirut and Bay Towers from the rear:




























and next to the recently remodeled Zaytouneh Square, whose design I find quite minimalistic:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

After Eden Gardens and Berytus Parks:










starts Bab Idris Street with its beautiful landmark building:










The Grand Serail is visible in the distance and I seize the opportunity to photograph it without being harassed by security guards:










I finally pass Ahmad Daouq Street:










and upon reaching Beirut Souks, also take a picture of this interesting edifice, which I had been prevented from in the past by another annoying guard:










These are the last pictures I have taken of Beirut. I know its most booming areas have changed yet again since my last visit, with more upscale residential towers sprouting in previously empty lots (hopefully not in the place of old buildings). But is the quality of life improving at all for the almost 2 million inhabitants? Looking from above at the dense smog choking the city on an ever increasing number of days, I cannot be less sure of that...


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## capricorn2000 (Nov 30, 2006)

I love the old _eclectic_ architecture, a mix of old French and Arabic. 
I always love to visit this city when I was based in the Mid-East but it wasn't safe during that time.


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

capricorn2000 said:


> I always love to visit this city when I was based in the Mid-East but it wasn't safe during that time.


When was that, in the 80s? It was a war zone back then.


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## capricorn2000 (Nov 30, 2006)

WasabiHoney said:


> When was that, in the 80s? It was a war zone back then.


yes, you're right, I'd just hearing about the good things from my fellow Lebanese workers.


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## Hassoun (May 10, 2006)

@chriskabalan


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## Hassoun (May 10, 2006)

@archleb


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## Hassoun (May 10, 2006)

Usj campus de l'innovation et du sport by @christinarahme


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## Hassoun (May 10, 2006)

@serge_elkhoury


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

The headquarters and student dorms of AUST (American University of Science & Technology), Ashrafieh



















Badaro










The headquarters of Byblos Bank, Ashrafieh


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Mohammad al Amin mosque










Amir Assaf mosque










An Nahar newspaper headquarters










Grand Serail (government headquarters)


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## Brazilian001 (Apr 22, 2012)

Beautiful Christmas pictures!


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Thanks, there is a lot more coming! Don't forget to give me some likes


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## christos-greece (Feb 19, 2008)

Really great, very nice updates about Beirut, cat! :cheers:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Thank you! By the way, the first post with the Christmas decorations is on the previous page (as nobody seems to have noticed it)


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Maarad Street:



















Allenby Street:










Nejmeh Square and Abd clock tower:










Moutran Street:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Foch Street:










Courtyard of St Georges Maronite cathedral:










Weygand Street:










Weygand Street - Melrose building:










Beirut Souks - Souk at Tawileh arcade:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Beirut Souks:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Verdun 730 shopping mall:



















Verdun 732 shopping mall:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

ABC Ashrafieh shopping mall:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

*2011​*
Bank Med, Charles Malek Avenue:










ABC Ashrafieh shopping mall:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

ABC Ashrafieh shopping mall:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Beirut Souks - Souk al Arwam arcade:










Beirut Souks - Souk at Tawileh arcade:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Beirut Souks - Designer Christmas trees in Jewelry Souk:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Beirut Souks - Designer Christmas trees in Jewelry Souk:




























Beirut Souks:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Beirut Souks:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Beirut Souks:


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## WasabiHoney (Jan 31, 2011)

Allenby Street:



















Moutran Street:


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## Brazilian001 (Apr 22, 2012)

Loved the Souks decorations, specially the designer trees in Jewelry Souk! 

ABC Ashrafieh ceiling reminded me a lot of Boulevard Rio shopping! And the polar bears reminded me of a picture I have of myself with the Coca-Cola bear when I was little


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