# CONDESA: A cool neighbourhood in Central Mexico Ctiy



## aljuarez (Mar 16, 2005)

“Condesa” (meaning "The Countess") is a series of neighbourhoods located to the South-West of the downtown area which started life when an old Hacienda (agricultural estate) was parceled up for residential development at the turn of the 20th Century. Back then it was far less grand than neighbouring “colonias” (neighbourhoods) Juarez and Roma, which had large, fancy homes built in French styles. 

Condesa’s style was decidedly more modest, but decidedly more modern, as well. It couldn’t afford the grand European styles, but it didn’t adopt a traditional Mexican style either. Rationalist, functionalist and other no-frills styles were the main influences. Unlike much of the city around it, Condesa was actually developed using a master plan, whose street grid was interrupted to include diagonal avenues, roundabouts and a couple of circular parks. It was this lack of thoroughfares which may have saved it from the deterioration of its rivals, as it seemed to discourage through-traffic and office developments. 

By the middle of the 20th Century it was a leafy, peaceful middle-class neighbourhood where several of the city’s best art deco residences had been built. It was also a bastion of the newer waves of Jewish immigration. A true barrio served by all kinds of neighbourhood shops, the area saw decades of apartment building construction, which turned it into a high-density area, rather desirable but not especially coveted. As zoning continued to relax and new suburbs continued to develop in the South and West, wealthier residents started to flee the area, including most of the older Jewish community, a process which was dramatically speeded up after the 1985 earthquake seriously damaged or destroyed many buildings in the whole central area of the city. 

By the early 1990s, however, a new generation of artist, writers and entrepreneurs had rediscovered the fledgling area and saw great potential. A centrally-located place where the large homes with high ceilings were great for studios, and where the tree-lined streets and parks were full of attractive spaces for small offices and restaurants with instant “character”. Large-scale, commercially fueled gentrification had reached Mexico City. It wasn’t long before the re-discoverers had been pushed out of their newly found spaces by soaring rents and hardly a week went by without a neighbourhood shop closing down to be replaced by a café or restaurant. Architecturally valuable homes were torn down by speculators to build cookie-cutter “loft” apartments, mostly of mediocre quality and styles (some great exceptions, though). 

The situation seems to have stabilized and now Condesa is firmly established as a desirable, high-cost, high-value real estate area, served by one of the largest concentrations of eateries in town. While most of the restaurants are not memorable, and while the area severely lacks parking spaces and suffers from high levels of noise pollution from planes above to partying crowds below, its advantages are manifold. It’s one of the few areas in town where walking around can be actually pleasurable. It doesn’t have the high fences and conspicuous security personnel that make other areas inhospitable. You can walk to your favorite café or bookstore. You could actually leave your car parked and walk everywhere. Newly-fashionable biking has also done much to emphasize the pedestrian-friendliness of the area. Cosmopolitanism is another salient feature. While Polanco remains the city’s fanciest mixed-use area, it does so through its connections with the international consumption patterns. Polanco is where multinational company executives and foreign officials stay and shop. Condesa is where models, photographers, designers, journalist and others without an expense account live. Polanco consumes, Condesa and neighbouring Roma, create. 

And well, I care because it’s the neighbourhood where I grew up and where I live again! 

The Coronation Church, local landmark.


The residence of former President Plutarco Elias Calles, used as location for commercials, films and soaps. This does have a high fence, though! 


The unavoidable Strbcks… following gentrification wherever it goes…

A couple of the more fortunate new developments



Art Gallery


The Condesa Buildings, were the city’s first actual modern upmarket apartments. Started at the end of the 19th Century, they included many modern features such as closets and common gas installations. The first stage was almost completely inhabited by diplomats at the turn of the Century.




Typical side street, Antonio Sola, where I lived a few years. Notice the apartment buildings from different decades. Late 50s-early 60s in the foreground, the late 70-80s heavy balconies, and surviving houses farther down.


On Avenida Mazatlan, a late 60s development with apartment towers looming in the back.



Down Alfonso Reyes Avenue


Santa Rosa Church


Down Alfonso Reyes Avenue


Avenida Ámsterdam


Finally, a few of the area’s many shops, restaurants and cafés… Some of these have already closed down!


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## Koobideh (Jun 27, 2009)

Very nice. Very classy..


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## skylark (Jan 27, 2010)

nice neighborhood....very touristy.


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## christos-greece (Feb 19, 2008)

Really a cool, very nice district of Mexico city


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## aljuarez (Mar 16, 2005)

Thanks for your comments, guys. I wouldn't say it's "touristy", though. No actual sights, although it is featured in the guidebooks...


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## kingsway (Dec 15, 2009)

beautiful photos of a nice neighborhood.


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## RobertWalpole (Mar 16, 2010)

BEAUTIFUL!


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## aster4000 (Jan 28, 2010)

I like this neighborhood..
it's kind of peaceful and neat.


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## madridhere (Oct 10, 2005)

A wonderful neighbourhood.


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## aljuarez (Mar 16, 2005)

I’ve heard people say before that it’s difficult to be objective about one’s own country, but I find it’s actually easy to be objective about one’s city and even more so about one’s own neighbourhood. In other Mexico City threads people trash Condesa as pretentious, over-hyped and grossly overrated. I´ll be the first one to admit that they have a point if you look at the price-quality ratio of real-estate, rent prices or the number of people walking tiny dogs in silly outfits, but they are missing the point. 

It’s the mix that’s the attraction. Sure, other áreas have newer, better housing, but they may be in dull, bland neighbourhoods. They say real money is elsewhere, but you can really see it only once you’ve walked past security or after driving yourself up there. Other areas are prettier and greener, too, but you’ll probably be the only one walking about. And even more to the point, other places have lots more of eye-pleasing, architecturally or historically valuable properties. All true, but for a urban village with all the disadvantages of the city core, but with all the little extras that add up to quite something, Condesa remains unchallenged, in my subjective opinion!:lol:

Some of the good, bad or ugly contemporary, mostly residential construction projects…



































































































































































Images of other shops, cafés and eateries around the area















































































































A few views from above, through the dirty windows of an apartment being renovated. Notice much of Condesa is within walking distance from the Reforma business district





























Random shots of façades and details


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## toshijmx (May 31, 2011)

Some of my earliest memories in life are of Mexico City, where I lived until I turned 15. I had a friend on Amsterdam St and I loved the high view from his apartment and the fact that we could walk to the park and buy snacks and stationary for our homework on foot. So different from my car-centric suburban life!


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## Linguine (Aug 10, 2009)

Cool indeed...nice pics.


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## capricorn2000 (Nov 30, 2006)

wow, one great neighborhood to live.
lots of trees and amenities.


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## Mr Equis (Aug 15, 2007)

ALL WONDERFUL, EXCEPT THE CABLES


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## madridhere (Oct 10, 2005)

Very cosy places.

Great!!!!:cheers:


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## Texan#1 (Nov 20, 2002)

Awesome pictures! I visited last year and loved it.


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## Mr Equis (Aug 15, 2007)

so, that was all?


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## aljuarez (Mar 16, 2005)

Time for an update from my home turf!

A couple of views from an apartment I visited with a friend. He ended up not buying. The views were great, though!



















More shops and eateries...
































































More residential architecture... except the tall tower, which is the main building of the Ministry of Economy



























































































Condesa is known for its Art Deco architecture, most of which is unfortunately in disrepair or has been destroyed by commercial real estate speculation. Fortunately, a lot of it too has been catalogued for preservation by the Fine Arts Institute of Mexico. 























































Among the art deco works, the Basurto Building stands out for its size and its spectacular lobby and staircases. It was designed by architect Francisco Serrano and finished in 1942. By then, art deco was no longer fashionable, but many show business personalities moved to it when it first opened. It has been featured in numerous TV commercials, soap operas and movies, including Alejandro González Iñárritu's "Amores Perros"









































































Bonus shots... :lol:


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## Expat (May 25, 2005)

This neighborhood is the very definition of the good life, in my opinion.


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## gdlrar (Feb 8, 2010)

Nice place to live!


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